Like Cognac, Armagnac is a high quality, complex and satisfying French brandy, but what many people don't know is that Armagnac actually came first! There are records of Armagnac being traded as early as the 15th century, which is as much as two centuries before Cognac. At first, the distilled wine was used primarily for medicinal purposes, but it wasn't long before people began to enjoy it strictly for pleasure. By the 18th century, Armagnac was considered the equal of Cognac in terms of quality.
In the late 19th century, the phylloxera louse had a devastating effect on the vineyards in Armagnac and quantities of the brandy fell drastically. When the vines had been replanted and volumes began to improve, poor quality Armagnac produced after the Second World War damaged its image. Quality has now improved and Armagnac's reputation is on the rise.
The Armagnac Style
Armagnac is a rich, powerful spirit, which is much earthier than Cognac. Some of its flavours include violets, mulch, beech nuts, prune, and other dark fruit. These deep, dark flavours and aromas take longer to emerge making Armagnac slower to mature than Cognac. The unique style of Armagnac is the result of several factors. The area in which the grapes are grown is much warmer than Cognac producing base wine that is higher in alcohol and lower in acidity. The single column continuous still in which the base wine is distilled also contributes to Armagnac's distinctive characteristics.
Armagnac Can Only Come From Armagnac
In order for a brandy to call itself Armagnac, it must come from the delimited region of Armagnac in France, just as brandy labelled as Cognac can only come from Cognac. Armagnac is located in Glascony, south of the famous wine producing region of Bordeaux.
The grapes used for Armagnac are much the same as the ones used for Cognac. Ugni Blanc is the dominant variety used. It gives low alcohol and good acidity. Folle Blanche and Colombard are also grown and used for their weight and aromatic lift. The one variety that is unique to Armagnac is Baco 22A, also known as Baco Blanc. This has been a controversial variety as it is a hybrid and the EU has a ban on the use of hybrids in delimited areas. The producers of Armagnac insist that it is this variety that contributes to the distinctive flavours of their brandy. The battle has been won by the Armagnacais who are now legally permitted to use the grape in the production of their brandy. Baco 22A is valued for its fruity richness and weight.
The Unique Armagnac Still
The distillation of Cognac has changed little since the brandy was first produced and it continues to be distilled in the traditional pot still. Armagnac, on the other hand, adopted the single column still in the early 19th century. The 'alembic Armagnacais' still is an adaptation of the continuous column still created in 1801. This unique still has a major influence on the flavour of Armagnac.
The Armagnac still produces an eaux-de-vie that has between 52 and 62% abv after just a single run (compared to Cognac which is about 70% abv after 2 runs). The low strength eaux-de-vie contains a high proportion of tails, the heavy, flavourful compounds which are responsible for the rich, deep, intense flavours of Armagnac.
After distillation, the eaux-de-vie is then aged in oak barrels where the spirit interacts with the wood creating complex aromas and flavours.
Armagnac Terminology
Some of the terms on an Armagnac label are very similar to those of Cognac, however they may have slightly different meanings.
- VS or *** - the youngest Armagnac in the blend must be at least 1 year old. (Cognac must be 2 years old.)
- VSOP - the youngest Armagnac in the blend must be at least 4 years old. (Cognac is the same.)
- XO/ Napoleon - the youngest Armagnac in the blend must be at least 5 years old. (Cognac must be 6 years old.)
- Hors d'Age - must be at least 10 years old
Armagnac's dense flavours take time to open up and develop the special complexities known to brandy connoisseurs. In order to have good Armagnac, there needs to be a substantail period of ageing. This means that many VS Armagnacs are released much too early.
Enjoying Armagnac
Like Cognac and other brandies, Armagnac should be served in small 2 oz servings in a snifter with a wide bottom and narrow rim, or in a glass that has a wide bottom and a long chimney. This allows for the aromas to be captured for your enjoyment as you bring the glass to your lips.
When appreciating Armagnac, be careful not to stick your nose right in the glass. The alcohol will only burn your nostrils. Hold the glass at chest height and slowly bring it up to your face. This way you will be able to fully savour the complex aromas, such as dark fruit, chocolate, caramel, and flowers. Then take a small amount in your mouth, swishing it around to all parts before swallowing.
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