Cognac is an unsweetened French brandy made by the distillation of fermented grape juice and aged in oak barrels. Just as sparkling wine made only in the Champagne region of France can be called Champagne, only brandy made in the Cognac region can be called Cognac. Hennessy, Remy Martin, Martell, and Courvoisier are four brands that dominate the liquor store shelves in Canada and around the world. While these may be the most common brands, there are many smaller names that also produce excellent quality Cognacs.
A Short History of Cognac
Wine has been made in the Cognac region since the third century. The Charente river, which flows through the heart of the region, provided an essential transportation route for the export of these wines. In the 17th and 18th centuries, more and more of the local wine was being distilled into what the Dutch called brandewijn or 'burnt wine'. The large and very important Dutch market had a major influence on the increasing amounts of 'burnt wine' being made as they were demanding more and more of it to add to the drinking water on board their merchant ships. Throughout Britain in the 18th century, the demand for aged examples of Cognac rose along with the brandy's growing reputation.
Everything was looking rosy for Cognac until the devastation caused by phylloxera in the last quarter of the 19th century. Most of the vineyards were destroyed. By the time phylloxera was finally conquered at the beginning of the 20th century, Scotch whisky had taken the place of Cognac as the world's favourite tipple.
Since then, the Cognac market has been on a roller-coaster ride. The ever-important Asian market has gone up and down, taking the sales of Cognac up and down with it. Currently, Cognac sales are improving, especially in North America, probably as a result of the drink being mentioned in numerous hip-hop and rap songs in the US, and with the emergence of trendy new cocktails using Cognac in the recipe.
The Crus of Cognac
The region is divided into 6 vinegrowing areas decided on mainly by the amount of chalk in each region's soils. It was discovered long ago that grapes grown on chalky soils produced a certain quality and finesse not found in other soils.
- Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne (not to be confused with the sparkling wine from a different Champagne region) have the highest amount of chalk providing excellent drainage as well as good water storage. These two areas produce floral aromas of jasmine and lime blossom in their eaux-de-vie and are suitable for long-term aging. These are the most distinguished areas.
- Borderies chalky soils contain higher levels of clay and produce smooth, aromatic, and earlier maturing spirits with aromas of violets.
- Fins Bois is a mix of clay with islands of chalk. The spirits produced here are grapey and early maturing.
- Bons Bois has mostly heavy clay in its soil and is less distinguished.
- Bois Ordinaires has light and sandy soils and the area generally concentrates on making dry white wine.
Cognac Distillation
The production of Cognac has changed little in the last three centuries. Distillation must take place in a Charentais pot still made of copper and must be completed by midnight on March 31 following the harvest. The spirit is distilled twice; the first time in its entirety, the second time with the heads (tetes) and tails (secondes) removed. The resulting eaux-de-vie will have an alcohol strength of about 70% abv.
Cognac Maturation
All Cognac is aged in 350 to 400 litre oak barrels that range in age from new to very old. Two types of French oak are used. Limousin oak has coarse grains and a higher level of phenolic compounds such as tannins providing quick extract for short-aged Cognacs. Troncais oak has a tighter grain with less tannin, but with lots of aromatic compounds, such as vanillin. It is better suited to Cognacs destined for a lengthy aging.
Cognac Terminology
Along with the names of the crus listed above which may or may not appear on the labels, there are a few other terms that are helpful to know and understand.
- VS (Very Special) or *** - the youngest Cognac in the blend must have been aged for at least 2 years.
- VSOP (Very Superior Old Pale) - the youngest Cognac in the blend must have been aged for at least 4 years.
- XO (Extra Old)/Napoleon - the youngest Cognac in the blend must have been aged for at least 6 years.
It is important to note that while these terms may be seen on labels of other brandies, only in Cognac and Armagnac do they have legal restrictions.
Serving Cognac
Only small amounts, up to 2 oz of Cognac should be served at a time. The most common glass to serve it in is a snifter which has a wide bottom and a narrow rim to help you trap the aroma of the Cognac inside the glass allowing you to enjoy it each time you sip.
In 1986, Riedel came out with a different shaped glass called the Riedel Vinum Cognac-Hennessy glass. It is much taller and narrower than a snifter and the top flares out slightly like a tulip. The shape allows the aromas of the Cognac to be delivered to the nose without the burn of the alcohol.
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